Niamh, from our Sydney team, has just returned from her first journey to the white continent—a land of profound beauty, wildlife encounters, and transformative experiences.
Travelling to Antarctica was not only an adventure but also a milestone, marking her sixth continent. Here’s her account of this once-in-a-lifetime journey, filled with awe-inspiring moments and unforgettable memories.
Coming from Sydney, my adventure began with a long flight to South America, but the excitement of what lay ahead made the hours fly by. After landing in Ushuaia, I was greeted by breathtaking views of mountains towering over the small port town. The pre-embarkation hotel offered a spectacular vantage point, where I could just make out the port in the distance.
Exploring Ushuaia was the perfect way to ease into the trip. I strolled the charming streets, took obligatory photos at the famous “End of the World” sign, and indulged in a bit of relaxation at the hotel’s hot tub, all while soaking in the town’s unique charm.
The next day was Embarkation day, and we kicked it off with a sightseeing cruise along the Beagle Channel. The sunny weather couldn’t have been better for wildlife spotting—we saw an elephant seal and countless seabirds before even boarding the Sylvia Earle, our floating home for the next 11 days.
From the moment we stepped aboard, we were made to feel welcome. A warm smile and a cocktail on Deck 8? Yes, please! The buzz of excitement was palpable, even as we braced ourselves for the notorious Drake Passage.
True to its rocky reputation, the Drake dished out 3–4-metre swells—”not too bad,” as the seasoned Expedition Team assured us. About half the ship embraced it like my mum, who was in her element, happily chatting with fellow travellers at every meal. Meanwhile, I discovered that I’m not quite as seaworthy as I’d hoped. Thankfully, the ship’s lectures, activity briefings, and the promise of kayaking in Antarctic waters kept me going.
By our third day onboard, the first icebergs were starting to come into view, and the excitement on board was electric. We were lucky enough to make good time across the Drake Passage, allowing us a bonus landing at Whaler’s Bay on Deception Island—a hauntingly beautiful volcanic caldera.
This was also our first chance to try our additional activity. I had signed for sea kayaking after hearing rave reviews from people returning from polar trips. Although I had previous kayaking experience and had done some practice paddles, I was nervous about whether I could keep up—or worse, tip over into the icy waters!
Thankfully, I had nothing to worry about. Our kayaking guides—Eamon, Mark, and Ivan—were incredible, and the bond I formed with the other 11 kayakers made the experience even more special.
Our first kayak in the middle of an active volcano was surreal. Penguins porpoised through the water beside us, and the eerie ruins of an old whaling station told stories of a very different era. Later, hiking along the black-sand shores gave us an up-close look at the island’s rugged beauty.
The following days brought a mix of weather and experiences.
A foggy morning at Sprightly Island transformed into a magical ship cruise through Graham Passage, where brilliant sunlight broke through, illuminating the icy waters around us. Navigating through dense icefields and narrow channels was a testament to the skill of our captain and crew. Their expertise allowed us to explore some of the most remote and pristine corners of the Antarctic Peninsula.
Kayaking around Charlotte Bay under clear blue skies and amidst a field of massive icebergs was a highlight. The weather was perfect, and the scene was beyond stunning. ‘Picture perfect’ barely captures the grandeur of paddling through icy waters, watching a distant, towering iceberg grow larger but remain far away, a silent giant in the frozen expanse.
Our first continental landing at Portal Point was equally memorable. We braved a brilliant (if windy) hike and were lucky to spot three Weddell seals basking peacefully on the ice, their large, languid forms completely undisturbed by our presence. Nearby, a handful of Gentoo penguins waddled by, indifferent to the small group of visitors in their midst.
Day six brought a personal highlight—visiting Port Lockroy, home to the southernmost post office in the world. The striking red-and-black building set against the icy white landscape was simply unforgettable. We posted postcards and marvelled at the ever-entertaining Gentoo penguins, who waddled around the area as if they owned the place (spoiler: they absolutely do).
On the return Zodiac trip, we hopped aboard the Citizen Science Zodiac and had the opportunity to participate in a cloud survey and a phytoplankton Secchi Disk study, an incredible way to contribute to ongoing research in this pristine region.
Just as we were preparing to head back to the ship, an exciting call came over the radio—a humpback whale had been spotted nearby! Our Zodiac carefully maintained a safe distance, but we were lucky enough to witness it fluke not once, but twice—a breathtaking sight that left us all in awe.
The next day greeted us with a flurry of snowflakes as we prepared to land at Neko Harbour. Far from dampening our spirits, the snow made the moment feel even more magical. We hiked to a spectacular viewpoint, where panoramic views of glaciers unfolded before us as the sky began to clear. Meanwhile, the penguins, utterly unbothered by the weather, waddled along the snow-covered landscape creating new penguin highways and searching for their mates.
After a tasty lunch aboard the Sylvia Earle, we headed to Cuverville Island for the afternoon. Here, we found ourselves outnumbered by the ever-curious Gentoo penguins, whose sprawling colonies testified to life’s resilience in the harsh Antarctic wilderness. The snow continued to fall, turning the island into a picturesque winter wonderland.
Back on board, the day ended with captivating stories from historian Tim, who shared the adventures of explorer Adrien de Gerlache, sparking our imaginations with tales of intrepid exploration. Meanwhile, Gaby pointed out lenticular clouds—rare and otherworldly formations in the sky—and Dani offered insights into the vital role of krill in Antarctica’s intricate ecosystem.
The wind and swell finally caught up with us on our last full day of excursions.
With the morning landing deemed unfeasible, we embraced a day of onboard enrichment. After breakfast, we gathered on Deck 8 with steaming mugs of hot chocolate (some spiked with a little something extra for warmth!) and soaked in the dramatic views.
By afternoon, calmer conditions allowed us to disembark at Mikkelsen Harbour and join our final kayaking session. In freezing conditions, this turned out to be the best kayak of the trip. As we started our paddle, we were lucky enough to witness a glacier calve in the distance. Kayaking through brash ice, spotting a colony of chinstrap penguins, and encountering a lone Weddell seal resting on a small island were true highlights of the journey.
Before we knew it, the Sylvia Earle began its northward journey across the infamous Drake Passage. Though the waters had been calm overnight, the growing swell served as a reminder that we were leaving behind the sheltered embrace of Antarctica.
Our final sea days were a blend of reflection and enrichment. Dani’s talk on the historical relationship between humans and whales provided a poignant insight into conservation, while Gaby’s session on Antarctic glaciology deepened our understanding of the mesmerising landscapes we had explored. Tim’s engaging presentation on Frank Hurley—whose photographs captured the heroism and hardships of early Antarctic explorers—added a fascinating historical dimension to our experience.
Our final afternoon onboard ended on a lighter note with the game How Big Is It?—a fun and interactive way to test our knowledge of Antarctica. Hosted by the ever-energetic Eamon and his team, the game sparked laughter and some good-natured competition. Our team proudly claimed third place, though not without some spirited debate over questions like the exact height of Ivan, our kayak guide!
As the Sylvia Earle cut through the waves, friendships forged over shared adventures were celebrated over final drinks. With Ushuaia on the horizon, thoughts of home mingled with a profound sense of gratitude for the unparalleled experience we had just shared.
Want to create your own unforgettable memories in Antarctica?
Browse some of our most popular Antarctic expeditions below or download or order our latest brochure to view the full range of itineraries. To book, contact our expert team or request an online quote.
Spirit of Antarctica
Polar Expedition
Welcome to AE Expeditions’ Spirit of Antarctica expedition. Embrace the spirit of polar exploration on this classic expedition to the coveted white continent. Sail across the famed Drake Passage to and...
12 Days
From USD $13,571.25/pp
Wild Antarctica featuring the Weddell Sea
Polar Expedition
Welcome to AE Expeditions’ Wild Antarctica featuring the Weddell Sea expedition. Famed for its enormous icebergs, year-round sea ice, fascinating fossils and the pivotal role it played in Shackleton’s Endurance expedition,...
12-13 Days
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